Sunday, 18 November 2012

The long journey to Trastavere.



This morning we were at breakfast at 8:30. There was a significant chance of rain, so we made no major plans. After surveying the situation, we decided to walk to Basilica di San Clemente, a church built on top of a church built on top of a pagan shrine.  On our way, we saw this interesting juxtaposition of buildings - old and very new.

What an amazing place -- three levels of history from Christian to Mithraic, complete with natural spring within the lowest level of the building.  The place is so well kept as we moved down and down and down into levels of history we'd never seen let alone walked on.  This was the place I chose in which to light a candle for our Sammy - it just seemed all-encompassing and appropriate.

Narrow gap between old and older area of the space

Mithraic section at the lowest level


Entrance to the basilica showing the many different patterns of mosaic tile throughout the upper level.
After leaving the Basilicia, we continued our walk.  This time our objective was Trastavere, specifically Dar Poeta, a pizzeria recommended by Lauren L-N (and Rick Steves).  Our trek took us past all the ancient buildings we' ll see on Wednesday - the Coliseum, Parthenon, Forum.  Quite a stunning vista.  And along the way, some touristy bits of humor!
Can't go anywhere without seeing Lady Liberty!
And Bob mugging for the camera!
By a very small statute of Romulus and Remus on a very large pillar

Bob gesturing by a statue of Neptune

After many frustrations, like locked gates at the end of a long path and an Ecuadorean procession through a narrow alley in Trastavere blocking our way, we finally made it to Dar Poeta.  We had an enjoyable meal outside, ordering way too big a carafe of wine (and we even ASKED to have a large rather than small carafe, not knowing it was mega-sized). 
More pizza - and salad...

Across from the place was a wildly graffitied door, and when the owner showed up, more graffiti appeared after he opened said door! And inside the place was art that looked like --- GRAFFITI.  Turned out he is architect who just likes to paint, too.
After our meal, we walked along the Tiber, noticing that the water really looked like glacier water.  We' ll have to ask someone about that - it was quite distinctive.
And then we took public transportation home, bickering all the while over the merits of walking the THREE miles back versus taking a tram. 

Quite the busy day for our Bob...

We had a light dinner at the hotel after Bob took a way too late siesta. Bed before 9PM.











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